I often see this question posed on social media, “I max out my work retirement accounts and still have some money I could save for the future. What do I do with it?” Or,

I‘ve just finished paying off my student loans… woohoo!! What do I do with the couple of thousand dollars I’ll have left each month now that they’re not going towards the loans?” Or,

“My grandma passed away and left me $100,000. I don’t have any debt apart from $435,000 on my mortgage at 3.25% Where do I put this money?” Or,

“My husband and I have been out of training a few years now. We have been maxing out our work retirement accounts and Backdoor Roth IRA. We finally did some reading on finance basics and feel ready to invest. How do we go about this?”

You get the idea. There’s some money lying around. You don’t need it right away and can sock it away for the future. You do not have any more tax-advantaged space left. What do you do?

The answer is, you open a taxable account and invest it in there.

Before you Invest

Well, before you do that, make sure you don’t have better use for it:

If you’ve checked all these boxes, it’s time you opened a regular brokerage account, also known as a taxable account. This puts you at #10 on the Milestones along the road to Financial Independence. That’s progress!

Downsides of a Taxable Account

It’s all in the name.

A brokerage account is often referred to as a taxable account because, unlike retirement accounts, which have tax advantages, these accounts do not. Or not as much.

Upsides of a Taxable Account

The upsides outweigh the downsides.

Upsides of summer

Do I Need A Taxable Account?

I suspect the answer is yes. Here’s why I say so.

Say you need $100k in annual retirement income. Figure out your own number here. At 4% Safe Withdrawal Rate, that amounts to a $2.5Million retirement stash you will need.

If you want to get there in 20 years, you will need to plow in $84k annually into accounts earmarked for retirement. If you consider 25 years, it’s about $60k you’ll need to save every year. Stretch it out to 30 years, you’ll need $44.5k a year (and that means you’re working into your 60’s). I’ve played around with these calculations here.

Most of us, particularly employed physicians, do not have $84k in tax-advantaged space per year. Here is how much an employed physician, under 50 years, might have access to:

About $32.6k. Nowhere close to $44k or $60k or $84k.

A self-employed doc does better:

This brings up the total to $70k. Not bad. These physicians are often higher income, and if they’re not inflating their lifestyle too much, usually have extra cash to invest.

This necessitates most of us will use a regular taxable account to save for retirement once us’ve maxed out our other accounts.

Tax Efficient Fund Placement

Reams have been written about this subject and no one agrees fully with each other.

The basic premise is that you put in your least tax-efficient investments into your tax-advantaged accounts. Everything else goes wherever there’s room- tax-advantaged space as long as it’s available and then in the taxable account.

This also changes with time. As you progress through the years, your taxable account becomes a bigger and bigger portion of your portfolio. At that point, more and more of your asset allocation spills into the taxable account, in part or whole.

Without diving too deep into the weeds,

This is a brief overview of the taxable investment account. Next time, we will see how to open one and what to do with it.

I look forward to your questions and comments!

8 Responses

  1. when the taxable account ends up being the biggest part of the portfolio and you want to hold a large percentage in bonds, is it safe to have so much money in muni bonds?

    1. That’s a great question! Asset allocation always trumps tax efficiency. Choose what bond funds you want to hold and then place them in your accounts, as best as you can. The less tax efficient among them can go in your tax-advantaged retirement accounts first, and if they spill over into the taxable account, so be it. Bonds are also not as tax inefficient as before because their returns have dropped so much lately.

  2. Will you explain a bit more the following bullet point?
    It helps to have taxable money to help pay for Roth conversions from your pre-tax accounts when you’re easing into retirement and the first few years thereafter. You might want to do this to reduce the size of your pre-tax accounts and therefore the RMDs you are obligated to take.

    1. During the last few years of work- if you go part-time and make less, your tax bracket will be lower. Same with the first few yrs of retirement. these are good years to do some Roth conversions from your pretax accounts. But you’ll need to pay taxes on the conversion. you can use money from your taxable account to pay for these taxes.
      Converting some of the pretax stash to Roth reduces the value of your pre-tax accounts and therefore reduces the mandatory Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs) that you are obligated to take out.

  3. Great post – Re “Since withdrawals from the brokerage account does not count towards your taxable income for the year…”, are you saying that selling the index fund in the taxable account does not count towards income tax?

    1. That’s right- it’s post-tax money- you’ve already paid taxes on the original amount. Only the growth is taxable- that too at capital gains rates. So, yes, it does not count towards ordinary income tax.

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